This video walks through taking apart your device in under 1 minute. We recommend first watching the entire video, then trying it yourself.

You may also get tips from our other guide: how to assemble your TRMNL.

For detailed photos and next steps see our guide on replacing internal components.

Below are steps to take apart your X for the purposes of replacing a screen or magnet. You may also want to check out our assembly video.

First turn off the device.

When you see a welcome screen, you're ready.

Flip over the device and use the included screwdriver from your X packaging to remove the 12 screws.

Flip your device back over, so that the screen is facing you, then turn it 90 degrees counter-clockwise. The top of the screen will be to your left.

Now, slowly open the device like a book, leaving the bottom of the front enclosure touching (in contact with) the bottom of the back enclosure.

Note how the bottom edge of the front + back enclosures must stay very close together, as there are 2x ribbon cables connecting the screen and touchbar to the main PCB.

It's likely that 1 of the 2 silicone gaskets will detach from the front enclosure. This is fine, we'll fix it later.

With your device open, our first step is to remove the 5x screws from the main PCB in the center of your back enclosure.

Here again, use the screwdriver included in your X packaging.

With all 5x screws lose, place them to the side in a fresh pile as they are a different length than the 12x case screws we removed earlier. You should now be able to lift up the PCB.

Your main board (PCB) is tethered in either 5 or 6 locations:

Before continuing we need to remove the batteries.

One at a time, firmly grip the top and bottom of the battery wires as close to the board as possible. You may lift the board 1-2 inches to make this step easier.
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For future reference, the "MAIN BAT" (main battery) is the one directly to the left of your main board, and the "EXTRA BAT" (extra battery) is the one at the bottom of this image.

With both batteries removed we're ready to make a repair.

Put your finger behind the corner of your display, front enclosure, and push the display upwards. In the orientation depicted below you'd be pushing from the top right, underneath the screen.

Let the screen drive the display board into a similarly flipped position, ending like this.

Let's zoom in to better understand what we're working with.

Detach the screen from your main PCB by putting your finger underneath the black gate and pushing upward. You will feel a light click.

Once the gate is open, the ribbon should fall out without any pull force.

Put your new screen in the same position as the old one -- with the display itself facing upwards (towards you) and the ribbon on the far right side.

Firmly grip the ribbon cable with your thumb + index finger and insert it into the main PCB cable connector.

The most important thing to note at this step is ensuring the ribbon is inserted directly perpendicular (90 degrees) to the cable connector gate.

While holding the ribbon in place, use your other hand to click the gate connector back down over the cable.

Skip ahead to "Put together the main enclosure" below to complete your repair.

With your main board free to move, use either your finger nails or pair of tweezers (any thin instrument will suffice) to pry the back enclosure magnet from the donut shaped hole in the middle.

Once the magnet is removed, note the correct polarity for re-assembly.

The north pole (painted red) should be face down towards your table top.

Your new magnet should already have silicone attached on both sides. If it doesn't, detach and re-use the silicone from the old magnet.

After replacing your screen or magnet, re-connect the batteries. You may have 1 or 2 pending the options you chose at purchase.

The battery directly to the left of the main PCB is should be connected to the "MAIN BAT" bottom-most port in the photo below.

Each battery has 4x wires. The red wire should be on the same side as the WiFi antenna. In the photo above that means on the "top" side, and the black wire should face the batteries, on the "bottom" side.

It's time to re-attach the main PCB. There are 5x screws, let's align just the bottom left hole and add a screw.

Don't tighten this all the way - you may need to pivot (rotate) the board to align the other 4x holes. This is important for ensuring your charging dock's pogo pins make good contact with the opposite side of the PCB.

Next we need to re-position the screen and potentially re-insert the silicone gasket on the front half of the enclosure.

Gently grip the far right end of your touchbar (opposite of the white ribbon cable) and move it above + behind the screen.

Now let's fix the silicone gasket if it fell out during the previous steps.

There are 2x gaskets, inner + outer, with slightly different lengths. If both of your gaskets fell out during the steps above, be sure to use the longer one on the outer edge and the shorter one for the inner edge as depicted here.

Apply minimal vertical (not lateral / sideways) pressure to insert your gasket back into the groove along the inner edge of your front enclosure.

If you stretch the gasket it will be too long and the extra slack won't have a home. Just push the gasket straight down into the groove, working your way around the perimeter.

Your final corner may be minimally stretched to create a tension fit.

Now, reposition your back and front enclosures side by side, like a book as in the earlier steps of this guide.

First re-install the touchbar by flipping it over from the left to the right side.

There are notches in the touchbar which will fit around the "ribs" of the front enclosure's bottom edge, depicted in the center above.

Carefully flip over your screen so that its bottom (white) edge sits on top of your touchbar.

Do not attempt to close your device yet - this will crack your screen. Gently lift the screen's ribbon cable from underneath the center of its length to help the screen "sit" inside the enclosure, beside the 2x ribs and 2x threaded inserts on the front enclosure.

Begin slowly closing the case by lifting the back enclosure (left side above) as if you were closing an open book. The screen should naturally adjust to be sitting beside the 2x ribs and threaded insert standoffs.

Here's another angle. Note the visibility of the front enclosure ribs near the center of the image.

And here's a close-up... this step is very important but we're almost done. ;)

The same elements should be visible on all 4x sides of your front enclosure. You will see ribs and threaded insert standoffs beside your screen. If you do not, re-position the screen to fit snugly in the center. Otherwise it will crack.

Finally, inspect your closed device by ensuring no ribbon cables are pinched along the bottom edge. A small seam gap is OK and will be resolved by screws.

One screw at a time, connect the back enclosure to the front enclosure, starting along the bottom.

As you turn each screw, press gently beside it to help guide the 2x enclosures together and prevent stripping from uneven planes. Work your way around the enclosure until all 12x screws have been re-attached.

After assembling your device you should see the same welcome screen we started with. If it is not responsive after connecting the charging dock with power, perform a soft reset.